Sunday Wandering along the Garonne

An early start this morning as we left the delightful vineyard. We traveled into Cadillac to visit the medieval town we meant to explore on Friday. 

Medieval village of Cadillac. 

The sky was overcast so we decided to visit some of the small villages of this famous region. 

Cadillac was originally designed by the English King’s representative in 1280. Over time this walled city enjoyed prosperity because of its location on the Garonne. Today we still see the basic elements of this original design, with the walled city, the central market square and some original houses that have survived over time. 

A brocante marché was setup in front of Cadillac’s ramparts. A keen eye could pick out a bargain here - I fail to have a keen eye!

It was here at the market that we were reminded of one of the many ways the French carry their baguettes. This delightful Frenchman was browsing the market after his visit to the boulangerie!

After a coffee we drove on to St Croix-du-Mont, an elevated village above the Garonne. Here we were able to get an incredible panoramic view across the valley. 

The view across the Garonne to the south has very few vineyards. Behind us here is nothing but vineyards. 

Here at St Croix was a geological formation of fossilised oyster shells. These deposits, Huîtres Fossiles, were laid  down 25 million years ago (so I was told!) when this area was underwater. It is this laying down of the sea shells that has made this area such a good place to grow grapes. 

St. Croix also had an interesting church, a Chateau and a great viewing area. 

St Croix-du-Mont images. 

A little further along the Garonne we stopped off at another medieval village, St Macaire. Some very interesting arcades  and a wonderful mural in the Romanesque church. 

A walk around the village opened up other interesting shops. 

Fine pottery figurines 


From St Macaire we crossed the Garonne and stopped of at one of the locks on the Garonne Canal at Castets-en-Dorthe. Many French were also enjoying this very tranquil picnic area, and the music recital taking place. Being a designated aire de camping we decided to spend the evening here. 

The loch at Castets-en-Dorthe. Great place to spend a day - and a night!

Ladaux

We stayed another day at this lovely vineyard. The owners were more than happy for us to spend a little more time here. 

They ordered us a baguette for  today - the baker called by at around 7 am. A little later the ubiquitous yellow French postal van arrived providing door to door service too! 

We made good use of google translator with the following:

Interesting to checkout the vegetable garden with the elderly owner - neither of us understood anything the other was saying but we communicated quite well. He had beautiful half grown tomatoes - and he pinches out the laterals, too - with new lettuce and beetroot seedlings just planted out, he was not worried by the hot day ahead.  The rest of his garden looked very typical of an Australian summer vegetable garden. 

We spent some of the day planning where we might head over the next few weeks whilst in the Southwest France - never can be sure as to where we might end up! Perhaps another vineyard or two - with shade. 

This weather is absolutely suitable for cooking outside - the inside alternative is not an option. 

Ladaux - Smooth Vintage

It was a very warm night but woke to a reasonable cloud cover overhead. 

We moved on this morning- away from the coast with our destination Cadillac on the Garonne. 

Approaching the medieval village of Cadillac. 

We needed to do a little shopping on the way, and with this having been done we then had to tackle the motorway surrounding Bordeaux - which proved to be less tricky than the first time we did this a few days ago. 

Crossing the Garonne again - still a very murky brown!

We arrived at the very interesting town of Cadillac where we were planning to stop for the night - the town was even setting up for a festival, but the aire was not suitable for such a hot day. 

Very quickly we transferred our focus for our overnight stop to Vignobles Lobre et Fils,  a vineyard about ten kilometres away - and we made the right call - it turned out to be a lovely spot for an overnight stop. 

Again surrounded by vineyards, ancient farm buildings and a welcoming lady who showed us where to park for the best shade. 

Late in the afternoon we were invited to taste some of the wine produced on the property. Half an hour later we had an extra dozen bottles to help us on our merry way! Very nice wine, produced in soil rich of oyster shells deposited and uplifted geologically millions of years ago. The secret to the Bordeaux wine producing story! 

Normally noted for its reds but quality whites as well!  It depends on the location - over a hill will produce a very different wine. 

Atlantic Coast

Another very warm day - temps in the mid 30s! So, our shady resting place was the best place to be! 

 An early morning walk to the ocean saw how popular this area is with the locals - very good numbers for early in the day. 

The tide was out and we were amazed at the drop in levels from where the high tide mark was last evening to where it appeared now with the tide out. 

We spent most of the day relaxing before the co-driver took a swim in the Atlantic Ocean later in the afternoon. 

Atlantic Ocean - Plage du Grand Crohot

Moved on again today to the Atlantic Coast at a place called Plage du Grand Crohot. 

The site was selected because of the trees - it is supposed to be getting warmer over the next couple of days. We had planned to stop at Tussaud but it was over crowded and we were requested to move on by the pleasant Gendarmerie. We are glad they did because we ended up in a much improved location. 

On the way here we had to circle Bordeaux where we crossed the Garonne waterway to the sea. It was not an attractive river at this point of its course - perhaps that is why we couldn’t get a decent photo as we crossed!

Later in the afternoon we took a walk  to the beach here at Plage du Grand Crohot. It is a very popular spot for holiday makers and people after work. 

A long walkway to get to the ocean. 

 

Blaye - Chateau Marquis de Vauban

Arrived here late yesterday afternoon and had very little time to appreciate this great location. 

The vineyard surrounding the Chateau has areas for motorhomes to park - and car parking space to sample some of the produce. It is such a serene location - and within walking distance of the town of Blaye, situated on the inlet at the mouth of the Garonne River. 

We slept late and then took a mid morning walk into the town. Being an overcast day it was a very pleasant walk. 

We checked out the town which has one of the largest defensive 17th century citadels you would find around France. Designed by Vauban it covers an incredible area overlooking the town and the large inlet. The purpose was to be part of an early defence for Bordeaux. 

We returned to the Chateau grounds where we spent the rest of the day. 

Cognac

Today took us to Cognac - being in this cognac inspired district we thought that we at least needed to touch base here! 

We woke late this morning after the big night - the driver, at least, was feeling his age! But the view from the van was very rewarding - the lovely French manoir. 

We were invited to a typical French breakfast including delights from the local pâtisserie. Yet more hospitality from our lovely hosts! Fortunately no more cognac or eau-de-vie!

Susannah and Graham took us for a tour of their house and showed us the work they have done and what they are planning to do in the future - it will be quite stunning. 

After this we said our farewells and left for Cognac. The contrast between the rural French village and the large city was brought home to us. Cognac has the major Cognac Houses here along the river but it is just another large noisy city in comparison. 

By the end of the day we decided not to stop here overnight but to drive on to the Chateau Marquis de Vauban where we stayed in the beautiful grounds of the Chateau surrounded by vineyards and five other motorhomes.

Sunday at Segonzac

Having met Susannah and Graham whilst dining at our ‘interesting’ French restaurant on Friday night, they kindly invited us to a barbecue at their home this afternoon. 

The beautiful French manor house has been their home for the past four years. They have been very busy during this time in restoring this magnificent property. Their work to this stage in both the grounds and the building itself is nothing short of amazing.

Susannah, having her own antique business has acquired the most exquisite collection to enhance and restore the Manoir to its former glory. Chandeliers were in abundance as well as delightful French furniture and window dressings to name but a few.

What a delightful couple and so welcoming.

Other guests were their friends, Tony, a retired craftsman and dealer in silverware, and Pablo and Clara another delightful local couple. Clara had briefly lived in Canberra as a child as her father was a diplomat.

The afternoon and evening went all too quickly. Much fun and laughter, not to mention gourmet delights with some blind tasting of a number of red wines,  before Graham brought out his fine cognac collection!

To top this off we were treated to some eau-de-vie which was discovered in an area of the house having been under wraps for possibly over a century - obviously left behind by previous owners who were in the cognac business. 

The  eau-de-vie discovered by Susannah and Graham.  We were very privileged to have been able to taste their very rare discovery. 

The eau-de-vie was stuff to blow your socks off! Wow! But what a find. And we were so privileged to be included.

The party continued to well after midnight - fortunately we were able to stop here for the night!