Tarn Valley- - Peyre

Rained this morning while we were out walking  - a little wet by the time we returned to the van. But so good to see rain, a fresh smell in the air - but not as good as the Australian bush smell after a good downpour. 

We left Vabres l’Abbaye eastward towards St Affrique. Here we did a spot of shopping before coming across the largest Saturday market we have seen in France. The whole main route through the town was taken over by stalls. Traffic was rerouted well away from the area - a testing time for our three GPSs!

St Affrique is a very old village with the building showing their age - money has obviously not been put into its beautification. 

There was some interesting landmarks around the city with the old pedestrian bridge be outstanding. 

We left St Affrique and climbed through the hills before descending into the Tarn River Valley at St Rome-de-Tarn. We then followed the river along to Peyre where we stopped for the afternoon. 

At Peyre we had a fantastic view of the very impressive Millau Viaduct - one of the great engineering feats of this century. 

We plan to cross this 2.5 km viaduct tomorrow. 

Albi to Vabres-l’Abbaye

The temperature is on the rise again!  There was a need to get out early to visit Albi before the day heated up. And what a surprise! It was an after thought to spend time here, we are now glad we did. 

The gardens at the Berber Palace labelled “The Remarkable Gardens”. 

From the aire we walked into Albi, across the Pont-Vieux (Old Bridge) which  spans the Tarn River. From this vantage point the UNESCO listed Episcopal City is best presented. 

The very imposing Berber Palace and the vast red- brick Cathedral of St Cecilia dominate the skyline, as they do the city. Having crossed the bridge and entered the precincts of the Palace we came across The Remarkable Gardens. And what a lovely surprise! This old parade ground has now been turned into this classical garden. From the garden terraced walkway you get an amazing view of the Tarn. 

After we strolled around the beautiful terraced gardens, we  stepped next door to the vast red-brick Cathedral of  St Cecile, built in the aftermath of the Albigensian crusade in 1265 - a twenty year war by the Pope and the French Monarch against supposed heretics around this part of France - tens of thousands  were killed. The Cathedral was intended as a reminder to potential heretics that the Church meant business. 

The Berber Palace, the former Bishop’s Palace, was  built in the 13th Century - one of the oldest Bishop’s Palace in France. It is built more like a fortress than a Bishop’s residence - he had to do this because the people hated him and he had to defend himself. 

We wandered around the narrow alleyways with their half-timbered houses. The city is noted for its redness, with most of the building built from local red brick - even the cultivated farm soil is a deep burgundy. 

The day was starting to warm so it was time to walk back to the aire. Crossing the Pont-Vieux, thought to be the oldest medieval bridges in use in France, we noted that the arches were narrower at each end where the medieval drawbridges once stood. 

On returning to the van we had breakfast, cleaned the van and then departed for a Brico (hardware store) to get some bolts needed for our van. 

After this we drove on through the very scenic area of the Tarn to Vabres-l’Abbaye. The views across the valleys were quite outstanding. 

The temperature had climbed into the 30s so it was a relief to find the aire at Vabre-l’Abbaye had beautiful Plain Trees providing lots of shade!

More Bastide Villages - Puycelsi & Casrelnau-de-Montmiral

A cooler morning this morning as we left Bruniquel after three days in these relaxing environs. The excitement of Le Tour has now been replaced by continuing to visit some of the bastide (fortified) villages of the region.

In this mountainous terrain these villages tended to be built on hilltops, providing better security for a number of reasons. 

The first stop was at the village of Puycelsi. The village is nestle inside a ramparts of 800 metres, with towers and fortified gates. These ramparts are in pristine condition given that they have seen numerous seiges; those of the crusaders, then later the Protestant Huguenots, and also the English during the Hundred Years War. 

We were keen to get a good walk in before the day heated up - yesterday was a lot of sitting around - waiting. So we covered some territory here at Puycelsi whilst enjoying the interesting half timbered and stone house. 

After much wandering, and the day was still relatively cool, we decided to travel on a few kilometres to Castelnau-de-Montmiral which is another typical bastide town of the south west, the square is surround by covered walkways and located in the centre of the village. The town was found in 1228. 

The village was setting up for a three day music festival. All these villages seem to be a part of  a very vital festival program. 

There were many interesting dwellings around the village. 

The view from the ramparts are quite sensational with many artists taking advantage of this idealic setting. 

Enough of the village tours - we needed to restock the fridge so a short stop in Gaillac was required. From here we continued on to Albi where we had planned to spend the rest of the day and this evening. 

Bruniquel et Tour de France

Le Tour de France day. What a great day. And, an Aussie won the sprint into Toulouse - well done Caleb Ewan!

We were away from the aire before 8am to get find a place close-by to park along the route in readiness for the passing of the peloton. The view of Château Bruniquel from the other side of the valley was quite spectacular. You can see why this site was chosen, 1400 years ago to guard the route through these two valleys. 

No sooner had we left the village that we came across people, cars and vans already set up to view the day’s racing - still 5 hours to go at this stage!

But plenty to keep everyone entertained; from the French drivers not wanting to obey road- closed signs,

gilet jaune (yellow vest) folk being search by the Gendarmerie, 

to various sponsor vans passing through. 

The carnival atmosphere grew as people continually filled all the spaces along the route under the  high cliffs. 

Shortly after 1 pm the Caravan arrived at this point of the course when we saw the fun commence!  As one expat-local said, “Don’t get between the French and a freebie!”, and he was right! (Perhaps we all have a bit of that in us!)  Over a period of 30 minutes sponsors vehicles passed, throwing out products to the spectators along the route - what a show!  Reminded me of a book I’m reading describing how some of the aristocracy that threw  “crumbs” to the peasants back in the day. 

After the excitement of the sponsor caravans there was a wait of another hour and half before the main game arrived. Whoosh - and then it was gone!

Leading riders in the peloton chasing the breakaways who were about two minutes ahead of them. 

More support cars than riders. Could believe the number of cars involved - of all persuasions. 

The whole event was rather spectacular, and it showed just how it impacts on the French. All ages were out in force early to be part of the celebration. We had the Unions represented, setting up a tent and handing out union material to all present. We saw the gilet jaune (yellow vest) represented - with Gendarmerie keeping a close eye on their movements. Met a few Aussies too - a family over in France to see their daughter marry a Frenchman. 

And, within a few minutes the show was over!  Le Tour moved on!

We decided to return to the Bruniquel aire for the rest of the afternoon. It was amazing to see the extent of the support for Le Tour - cars were parked in all directions, kilometres away from where race passed. It was a very slow trip back to the aire with traffic clogging the roads all around the village. 

Bruniquel

Another day taking in the tranquil surroundings of this special part of France. The day has been warm, but with a cooling breeze, making it a near perfect summers day. 

An early morning walk around the village before the other tourists arrived allowed us to appreciate the village in our own time. It was interesting to see the residents tending their homes and the small gardens before being decended on by the likes of us. 

Clear streets on our early morning walk around Bruniquel. 

... and another. 

By the time we returned to the aire for breakfast only one other van remained leaving us, and a pleasant Frenchman, left. So a day of great peace and quite with a view down the valley and across to the hilltop village of Bruniquel. 

The village became important due to its position on the trade route in this part of France. The medieval houses of the village reflect the wealth that was created due to this position. Flax, hemp and saffron were the main sources of the wealth of the village with the village market place being the main trading location.

An elegant merchant’s house. 

The old castle has weathered some interesting times: divided living space between rival cousins, single living space during the Renaissance, set on fire during the Wars of Religion, and then refurbished in the following centuries. In 1987 it was taken over by the local administration and now used as a powerful symbol of the Tarn-et-Garonne district. 

The Château of Bruniquel keeping watch over the Aveyron valley. (Photo from Tourist Office brochure)

A few other motorhomers joined us later in the day so we felt we hadn’t driven them all away!

Tomorrow Le Tour de France passes through this area of the Tarn. We plan to join the tradition of lining the roadside to see the fleeting passing of the peloton. Roads in the area are to be closed at 11 am - so we will need to be parked-up well before this time. 

Bruniquel Cité Médiévale en Quercy

Our day ended in the village of Bruniquel which is perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Aveyron valley below. The builders - 500 years apart were obviously thinking of protection with their selection of location. 

View of Bruniquel from our van. 

Having a near perfect night sleep - even though the locals partied on to 2 or 3 in the morning - we took an early morning walk around the village and noticed that there was quite a bit activity given last evening. 

Sleepy settlement as seen from our early morning walk. 

We left Venerque mid-morning, called into a supermarket before tackling the traffic around Toulouse. It was relatively smooth sailing and we were soon on our way northwards to Monturban, before turning eastward again, towards the hills and Bruniquel. 

View of the hills and valley from the Chateau at Bruniquel. 

The locals have provided a fabulous aire for motorhome visitors - terraced and shaded areas that provides a spectacular view of the medieval village of Bruniquel. 

Mid afternoon we set out to walk the village, quite a climb on a warm afternoon- but it was well  worth the effort. 

Many of these old villages have much in common but each have their own individual attractive features that make them special to explore. 

We came across a delightful gallery where the artist had sculptured a huge range of birds and animals. Very clever! 

It was pointed out that some of the street names have little surprises, such as “rue Bombe cul”, meaning sliding on your bottom, for a very steep street; and, “rue trotte garces”, meaning loose women street! 

The Château of Bruniquel, founded in the 6th century, has gone through some changes over time. A makeover in the 13th century, and again, in the 15th century, has given us what we see today. We reached the Chateau by a steep walk up through the village.  

The Catholic Church (top left) was rebuilt in the 17th century from the stones of the destroyed Protestant church further along the village!

Interesting paintings, depicting the village, on display in the Chateau Gallery. 

The grounds of the Chateau are used each year to perform opera. We enjoyed seeing some of the rehearsals for this event. 

The Tour de France will be passing Bruniquel on Wednesday - interestingly the women in the Tourism Office had no idea as to what the route was around the village. Such was the enthusiasm  for Le Tour!

Venerque

Went to bed last evening with six vans at the aire - when we left this morning there were twelve vans - some motorhomers travel late into the evening! We heard one pull up alongside side of us at 2.30am. 

We had a very early start with the intention of getting a good parking position in Toulouse. 

However, today is the 14th July - Bastille Day - and as we got close to the parking area in the city we came across signs barring traffic from entering the city!  Not too fussed, so we changed our plans and drove to Venerque where we spent the day by the river. 

The co-driver had hit the jackpot - a Bastille Day market! The locals were out in force with an expansive array of stalls. 

Both the driver and the co-driver were interested in material being handed out to do with a referendum in France. A lovely lady took some time with us to explain that the “Macron” (The President) was proposing to sell off the airports in Paris - and she was not happy with this. She mentioned that “he” has already sold off the airport in Toulouse, and,  that it has been a disaster for the last three years. 

Later in the evening we wandered along to the village park where they were holding a Bastille Day feast, accompanied by live music.

We are always interested in the level of security the French put in place for any outdoor happening. This evening it was the security man with a fairly aggressive muzzled dog. Other times it has been large bollards or trucks blocking access. 

The evening finished with a fireworks display at around 11pm. The music continued for the next hour or so - past our bedtime!